#treasuresoflaos is a blog guide for individual travellers to the well known and hidden treasures of Laos with Google Maps. You discover Laos cities, countries and rivers through the eyes of people, who have been there. Learn about the growing influence of China in Laos - and the activities of the organized crime.
#treasuresoflaos: Your Guide to the Treasures of Vientiane
Trip in a local train (green train) from Vang Vieng to Kasi with sights
See the timetable and fares on Hobo Maps. They update the timetable every month.
Tickets can be purchased up to 3 days in advance at the stations and each person can only buy 3 tickets at a time. You have to present passenger identification documents and Covid-19 vaccination certificate, your name will be printed on the ticket. Payment must be in cash. If you don’t have a ticket, you should arrive at least two hours before departure time because you have to queue for ticket purchase and again for entry to the station and then go through security checks.
There are also ticket sales offices in central Luang Prabang and on the ground floor of the shopping mall Vientiane Center in central Vientiane. Each person can only get 2 tickets. Payment can only be made by UnionPay card or by QR Code (OnePay, UnionPay, Alipay and Wechat) at a POS machine. A service fee of 20,000 kip per ticket is charged. Hours are 10:00 am to 12:00 noon and from 12:30 pm to 15:30 pm each day.
Discover Laos Today offers a online ticket booking system for Laos-China railway. In Vientiane you can self-collect the ticket at Discover Laos Today office at ASEAN Mall from 9 am to 5 pm or they deliver to your hotel for 3$/way. In Luang Prabang you can self-collect at Discover Laos Today office at MyLaoHome Hotel and Spa behind Joma Bakery from 9 am to 5 pm or you get the ticket delivered to your hotel.
The Laos-China Railway Company Limited's Facebook page has info on how many tickets remain available for sale. https://www.facebook.com/LaosChinaRailway/
On the fast trains passengers are allowed to carry a baggage up to 20 kilogram. On ordinary trains there is no baggage limit.
Officials from China and Laos marked the official launch of the $5.9 billion railway connecting the two nations on December 3. The first passenger services were running on December 4. The first red, blue and white bullet train called Lane Xang departed from Vientiane station. It can reach 160 kph. The standard gauge single-track line cuts through 417 kilometers of rugged terrain from Vientiane to Boten, the main border crossing with China. The line includes 61 kilometers of bridges (167) and 198 kilometers of tunnels. The travel from Vientiane to the Chinese border, which so far took around 15 hours by road, now takes less than four hours. "The Laos-China Railway is part of the Belt and Road Initiative (BRI), Beijing’s $1 trillion transnational development strategy that aims at connecting China with over 70 countries across Asia, Africa, and Europe via the construction of roads, rails, seaports, and airports", describes The Diplomat.
No way to China for passengers right now
Right now passenger services are only offered inside Laos. Due to the Covid-19 pandemic the border between Laos and China is not open for passengertrains. But freight trains are running now between the two countries. Lao-China Railways has stated that once the immigration prohibition will be lifted after 1 January 2022 they would extend the services to Sipsongpanna station at Jinhong city in Yunnan. The CR200J Fuxing EMU trains take about three and a half hours from Kunming to Xishuangbanna Dai Autonomous Prefecture and less than three hours to Puer.
Passenger trains also started on Yuxi-Mohan line in China
According to Chinese news agency Xinhua the passenger trains on the line from Yuxi to Mohan in Yunnan have started operation also on December 3. Until December 9 a total of 114,000 passengers have been transported. The number of trains running on the line meanwhile have been increased from 17.5 pairs to 25.5 pairs. The new line ends the history of no rail service between Puer and Xishuangbanna. There are 93 tunnels and 136 bridges in the 508-kilometer segment. 15 tunnels are more than 10 kilometers long.
Laos opens the borders for international tourist groups
Laos has officially announced it will reopen for tourism on 1 January 2022 after the lockdown due to the pandemic. According to the Ministry of Information, Culture, and Tourism, the reopening will be implemented in three phases. The first phase will be from 1 January to 30 March 2022, the second phase from 1 April 2022 to 30 June 2022, and the third phase from 1 July 2022 onward.
During the first phase tourists from the following countries will be allowed in: China, Vietnam, Cambodia, Thailand, Malaysia, Singapore, South Korea, Japan, France, United Kingdom, Germany, the Netherlands, Spain, Italy, United States, Canada, and Australia. Tourism will be restricted to group tours at first, with tours arranged by authorized tour operators under the Lao Travel Green Zone Plan.
Tourists must be fully vaccinated against Covid-19 no less than 14 days prior to arrival. They need a health insurance policy with coverage no less than USD 50,000 and a negative RT-PCR test taken within the last 72 hours. Arrivals will be tested for Covid-19 and placed in a 24-hour quarantine in their hotel until a negative result is found. Tourists have to download and register at the LaoKYC and the LaoStaySafe mobile applications prior to arriving in the country and to upload their vaccination certification and Covid-19 test results.
Tourists will be authorized to travel within two zones: Green Travel Zones and Green Travel Trails. During Phase 1 tourists may visit the following green travel zones with at least 70 percent of the population vaccinated: Vientiane Capital, Luang Prabang Province and Vang Vieng District in Vientiane Province. Meanwhile, five provinces will be authorized for Green Travel Trails, including Oudomxay, Xayaboury, Xieng Khouang, Khammouane, and Champasak. Read more details on Laotian Times.
The timetable of the new railway
The following timetable has been published: Vientiane - Boten:
Vientiane dep 08:00
Phonhong dep 09:04
Luang Prabang dep 10:01
Meuang Xay dep 10:49
Boten arr 11:20
Luang Prabang - Vientiane
Luang Prabang dep 18:30
Vang Vieng dep 19:44
Phon Hong dep 20:15
Vientiane arr 20:46
A ticket costs of 330,000 Kip (around $33) for a second class seat from Vientiane to Boten. More ticket prices here. Passengers need to make 3-day reservation in advance and arrive at the station 1 hour before departure
Laos debts after the financing of China-Laos-Railway
"Laos opens scenic railway built on a mountain of Chinese debt", writes Yahoo News. In December 2016 Lao-China Railway Company — a joint venture between three Chinese state-owned enterprises that collectively hold a 70% ownership stake and one Lao state-owned enterprise that owns a 30% ownership stake — signed a BOT concession agreement with the Government of Laos for the China-Laos Railway Project.
Lao-China Railway Company directly secured $3.54 billion of debt financing from China Eximbank while the government of Laos and the Chinese Government jointly contributed $730 million and $1.63 billion of equity financing. Interestingly to make its own share of $730 million equity contribution to the rail project, the Government of Laos secured a $480 million loan from China Eximbank.
The government of Laos is hopeful the railway will turn a profit by 2027. But: With a tiny domestic market, there is "limited commercial logic for an expensive railway" to connect the country of seven million to Kunming, said Jonathan Andrew Lane in an Asian Development Bank Institute report. "That debt service will put further strain on the limited tax-raising abilities of the government," Lane wrote. In September 2021, Laos sold its electricity transmission grid for $600 million with a 25-year concession agreement, that allows a majority Chinese state-owned company to build and manage a large part of the country’s power grid.
What happens in Boten, at the border of Laos with China
In "Boten: the renaissance of Laos' Golden city" documentary photographer Nicholas Bosoni describes how Boten, a rural village counting a few hundred inhabitants less than twenty years ago, is shaping up as China’s gateway to Laos and Southeast Asia, this in form of a Special Economic Zone (SEZ). The Haicheng group, a Yunnan-based developer, presented a $10 billion to transform the former “Golden City” into “Boten Beautiful Land Specific Economic Zone.” The developers estimate that 300,000 people will live in Boten by 2035.
The China-Laos railway ends at the Vientiane south cargo station. There are plans to upgrade the first Thai-Lao friendship bridge linking Vientiane and Nong Khai across Mekong river because the bridge is too small with limited capacity to expand. The railway crossing the Mekong bridge from Nong Khai in Thailand to Thanaleng in Laos has a one metre gauge, while the China-Laos railway has a standard gauge with 1.45 metres. Piti Srisangnam, director of academic affairs at the Asean Studies Centre at Chulalongkorn University in Bangkok, told Bangkok Post, there was no need to wait for the state to build a Bangkok-Nong Khai line with standard gauge, as containers could be delivered to Vientiane using the existing narrow gauge. "Obviously, it won't be as smooth as if the same gauge applied all the way to China, but there are many other things we can start improving, such as border crossings, customs, logistics needed for handling a massive amount of container traffic, and better visa connections between three countries."
Bangkok–Nong Khai high-speed railway is partially under construction as a double-track standard-gauge line that follows the same route as the current Northeastern line. it's being built in partnership with Chinese companies (China Railway International and China Railway Design Corp). The first stage between Bangkok and Nakhon Ratchasima is scheduled to open in 2026. Phase 1 means the construction of the 253km section between Bangkok and Nakhon Ratchasima, at a cost of $1.67 billion USD with the stations Bang Sue, Don Muang, Ayutthaya, Saraburi, Pak Chong and Nakhon Ratchasima. Phase 2 of the 354.5km section from Nakhon Ratchasima to Nong Khai is still under planning. The stations will include Nakhon Ratchasima, Bua Yai, Ban Phai, Khon Kaen, Udon Thani, and Nong Khai according to futuresoutheastasia.com.
Meanwhile in Thailand there are concerns about products from China flooding markets in Thailand. Opposition MPs submitted a motion to question the government following a report that 33 containers with 20 tonnes each of fresh vegetables from China were sent to Thailand in the first week of December, reports Bangkok Post. The development is challenging to Thailand as Chinese fresh produce can be sent to the Thai border in one day at a much cheaper cost than air transport. The Chinese government has erected non tariff trade barriers for exporting fruits and Durain from Thailand to China.
30.3.2020
The Lao government said all international checkpoints will be closed to stop passengers from exiting and entering Laos, as the country imposed a lockdown to prevent the spread of the coronavirus, reports Xinhua. The transport of goods will, however, be permitted. People from all walks of life, including expatriates in Laos, are not allowed to go out of their homes or other accommodation for non-essential purposes. The measures will be in place from Monday (March 30) to April 19 and further changes could be made, local daily Vientiane Times reported on Monday. Read the report by Vientiane Times. Five patients are being treated at Mittaphab Hospital in the capital, and three are being cared for at Luang Prabang provincial hospital (see Facevook Page). "Outbreak fears in Laos escalated after thousands of Lao workers in neighbouring countries, especially Thailand, where a widespread outbreak was reported, have rushed home", writes Vientiane Times. Entertainment venues, karaoke, beer shops, night markets, massage and spa service venues, witness or sporting centres were told to close down.
Another case of Covid-19 infection has been confirmed in Vientiane Capital, bringing the total number of cases in Laos to nine. A 22-year-old woman, one of the thousands of Lao laborers who have returned from Thailand, has been tested positive, reports Laotian Times
26.3.2020
The number of cases of coronavirus infection in Laos have doubled overnight, an official with the country’s Ministry of Health said Thursday, bringing the total to six, reports rfa.org. The two new cases are two male tour bus drivers, aged 42 and 52, from Luang Prabang city who had close contact with a female, aged 36, who works as a guide for European tourists and was confirmed as one of the country’s first two infections on Tuesday, along with a 28-year-old male working in management at the Crowne Plaza Hotel in the capital Vientiane. The third new case—a 41-year-old male in Vientiane—had close contact with a 26-year-old male businessman who on Wednesday was confirmed as the third case and had become infected after having dinner with the Crowne Plaza Hotel employee.
25.3.2020 Kiridara Luang Prabang informs on Facebook: "The temporary suspension of all international flights into Luang Prabang and border closures due to the Covid-19 situation have caused hotels in Luang Prabang to temporarily cease operations."
23.3.2020 Chinese workers, some from a company in Wuhan, have restarted works for the construction of China-Laos railway, precautions are taken against coronavirus. Read more here.
3.2.2020 Chinese national carrying coronavirus travelled through Laos:The Laotian Times obtained a document from Chinese consulate in Luang Prabang. This document announced that Zhang Biao, a Chinese national from Chongqing (southwest China), had been discovered to have been infected with the coronavirus during his travel to Laos. In the evening of the 26th of January, Mr Zhang traveled to Vientiane Capital on China Express Airlines (flight G52805) as part of a group tour. He then proceeded to go to Vang Vieng on the 27th and reached Luang Prabang on the evening of the 28th. He then returned to Chongqing on the 31st via China Express Airlines (flight G54856).
But the Chinese Railway policy has much bigger ambitions. It is under way to create a Highspeed Railway System in Southeast Asia, linking China to Laos and Thailand and creating connections from China to Singapore.
Laos is forcing plans for a $7 billion railway link from the capital Vientiane in the South to the Chinese border in the North (passing the towns of Phonhong, Vangvieng, Luang Prabang, Oudomxay and Luang Namtha). The construction shall begin early in 2013. The line will be completed around 2014, said Laotian Deputy Prime Minister Somsavat Lengsavad at an international rail conference in Beijing. "While the exact route isn't clear, the rail line is expected to connect the southwest Chinese city of Kunming with Singapore, passing through Laos, Thailand and Malaysia", wrote wsj.com.
The project is financed by a 30-year loan from Export-Import Bank of China, according to rfa.org. China will be responsible for the construction. "Beijing is seeking to secure raw materials from neighboring countries to feed massive infrastructure investment and its manufacturing industry", wrote wsj.com.
There is one more railway project in Laos: On December 24 a contract was signed for a US $5 billion railway line from Savannakhet to Lao Bao at Vietnam border. The construction is undertaken by Malaysian company Giant Consolidated, writes enjoy-laos.com.
Meanwhile preparations for four highspeed-railway lines in Thailand are going on. Funding is to come from a proposed 2-trillion-baht investment programme dedicated to new infrastructure projects over the next seven years. In November 2012 Finance Minister Kittiratt Na-Ranong said according to Bangkok Post the government is planning four high-speed rail lines to support trade and tourism within the country. The four high-speed rail lines are Bangkok-Nong Khai-Vientiane; Bangkok-Ayutthaya-Chiang Mai; Bangkok to Hua Hin; and an expansion of the Airport Rail Link in Bangkok to Chon Buri, Pattaya and Rayong. These plans are supported by a Study of Thailand Development Research Institute Foundation. And China is aggressively lobbying the Thai government to select its train and construction technology, writes Bangkok Post. Chinese Deputy Railways Minister Lu Chunfang told Prime Minister Yingluck Shinawatra that its construction costs average only US$20 million per kilometre compared with $81 million in Japan and $50 million in Germany. Thailand and China signed a memorandum of understanding on April 15 to conduct a feasibility study for the Bangkok-Chiang Mai and Bangkok-Nong Khai high-speed rail links. Thailands government plans to open international bidding early next year on the first phase of the high-speed rail project. Chinese government officials advising Thailand have suggested that it begins with a 54km route linking Bangkok and Ayutthaya as it would fall in line with the government's push to have the ancient capital serve as host for the 2020 World Expo, noted Bangkok Post.
Update from April 5 in 2013:
The ruling Party in Laos has given the go-ahead to the government to officially negotiate the controversial US-Dollar 7.2 billion loan with China to finance the high-speed railway project linking the two countries, notes Radio Free Asia.
Should you fly from Vientiane to Luang Prabang or should you take the bus? Well, the busride will not be a too easy one. But first this:
In Vientiane buses leave at Northern Bus Station. You have the choice: VIP buses: Depart 08.00, 9.00, 20.00. Costs: 140 000 to 170 000 kip one way, 10 hours. You will get a bottle of water, a small snack and will stop for a lunch. Air-con Buses: 06.30, 07.30, 09.00, 11.00, 13.30, 16.00, 18.00, 19.30. Costs: 120 000 to 130 000 Kip, 10 hours. Local Bus: 11 hours, 70 000 Kip Mini Buses: To Vang Vieng, there you have to catch another Mini Bus to Luang Prabang. Ticket includes pick-up from hotel or guesthouse at around 10.00 or 14.00. Costs: 60,000 Kip).
See laomeow.blogspot.com
In Luang Prabang buses leave at Naluang Bus Station. VIP buses: 08.00 and 09.00. Express Buses: Depart 06.30, 08.30, 11.00, 14.00, 17.30, 18.30, 19.30. Mini Buses: Only to Vang Vieng (09.00, 10.00, 14.00, 100,000 kip).
And what's your experience on this bus ride? You will see a breathtaking landscape, mountains and valleys in all kinds of green colour, Lao rural life with waterbuffalos and playing children - if mist or clouds don't cover everything and prevent you from seeing anything...
But why does the bus take 10 hours for 384 km on a road, that is mostly paved? "It soon became clear", notes Safari mkubwa sana!: "There are numerous deep pot holes scattered randomly around. Some pot holes take minutes to cross and the bus driver generally needs to drive quite slowly to spot them before it's too late."
Worse: During the rainy season there can be interruptions of the road by land slides or trees falling on the road. In august 2011 a land slide has entirely swept away a stretch of road. "Buses are forced to stop on either side of the landslide, and passengers walk across to join another bus on the opposite side. As the buses have to stop at points where they can turn round, the total distance to walk is around 1.5-2km", writes lhm on Thorntree Forum. This seemed to be between between Kiew Kacham and Phou Khoun.
And why did it happen? "A lao friend told me that the landslide was caused by spirits/ghosts who were not happy that the people in a village nearby ate a very big snake", notes tictocchoc on Thorntree forum.
So if you cannot take easy situations like these, if you cannot sleep in a bus, because the way onward is not open, if you cannot live without air-con, when the air-con is broken, if you are afraid of ghosts, you will remember this journey as horrible...
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