Sunday, June 2, 2024

Si Phan Don ສີ່​ພັນ​ດອນ - 4000 islands in the Mekong

See the locations on Si Phan Don Google Map by #treasuresoflaos
See the Pakse Weather Forecast


Picture magical-world
Boats in the evening sun


"Si Phan Don" in Lao means "4000 islands". Around 110 to 60 kilometres down from Pakse the Mekong River forms different streams and these form hunders of islands. More than 60 000 people are living here, mainly from fishing. And here you find also the Irrawaddy Dolphins. See a picture by WWF. The best time to see the Irrawaddy dolphins is in the morning or in the late afternoon. But: Be aware: The Mekong Dolphin is endangered. Read: Is there a future for the Mekong Dolphin?


The best time to visit Si Phan Don is between November and January when the weather is cool and dry.


Picture Pretre
Mekong River at Si Phan Don

Picture takwing.kwong



How to arrive

By bus:

Pakse-Don Khong: From Southern Bus Terminal in Pakse buses or Songthaews leave several times between 10 am and 3 pm. After 120 km (three hours) you arrive by ferry in Muang Khong.

Pakse-Don Khon/Don Det: From Southern Bus Terminal in Pakse buses or Songthaews for Ban Nakasang leave several times between 7.30 am and 3 pm (three to four hours), then you take the longtailboat to Don Khon or Don Det.

Ubon Ratchathani-Pakse-Khon Phapeng Waterfalls: Air-conditioned buses operate on Friday, Saturday, Sunday and public holidays. The bus leaves Ubon Ratchathani at 0730 and arrives at the waterfall in southern Laos around noon. From Khone Phapheng it departs at 1400 and arrives in Ubon Ratchathani around 1830. The bus stops in Pakse for people who want to overnight there. For more information call Ubon Ratchathani’s bus station (045 314 299) or the Transport Company at 1490.

By car: There is a car ferry from Ban Hat to Ban Na on Don Khong island.



Don Khong ດອນ ໂຂງ - the big island

See the locations on Don Khong Google Map by #treasuresoflaos

Picture mypfuffin
Rice field

Don Khong is the main island, the big one, as lokal people say, when they want to prevent you from mistaking it with Don Khon, which lies near the Mekong waterfalls. Don Khong is 18 km long and 8 km wide. The island can easily discovered by bicycles, which can be rented from a woman on the street near the pier of Muang Khong or also in the guesthouses. On the bike you will discover a quiet rural life. But don't forget a hat, to protect your head from the strong sun.


Muang Khong
Muang Khong is the main village - a former French settlement. A large gold Buddha in the subduing Mara pose is overlooking the Mekong at Vat Phuang Kaew, also known as Vat Kan Khong:

Picture by marhas

Picture by marhas

Picture by marhas


Vat Chom Thong at the upstream end of the village dates from the Chao Anou period (1805-1828). You find a Khmer-influenced sim with an unusual cruciform floor plan and carved wooden window shutters:

Picture by marhas

Picture by marhas

Picture by marhas
Khmer influenced door

The naga heads on the roof of the main sim spill water from their mouths during raintime. Coconut and betel palms and Mango trees give the temple grounds some shade.


View across the Mekong towards Hat Xai Khun and its temple:

Picture by marhas



Muang Saen

Muang Saen is a little village with view to the Cambodian boarder across the Mekong.
By bicycle it's about 45 minutes from Muang Khong. About 6 km north of Ban Muang Saen Nua you arrive at Wat Phou Khao Kaew (Glass Hill Monastery.

Picture patrikmioeff

Wat Phouang Keo

An entrance leads to the underground location of the nagas (Muang Nak). The legend says, the nagas will come to the surface to protect the Lao poeple when the country is in danger.


Ban Hua Khong

Ban Hua Khong at the north-western end of Don Khong was in 1924 the birthplace 0r Khamtay Siphandone, who became a postman and later the president of Laos. He has renovated Wat Hua Khong Pha Nyai with a cement seated Buddha image in the main sim.


At the southern tip of the island you discover two small villages: Ban Huay and Ban Hang Khong. Here Wat Thepsulin Phudin Hang Khong, also known as Wat Hang Khong, has spacious grounds and a small sim. Nearby is a carved and painted wooden Buddha sanctuary and the dharma sermon hall. Then there is Wat Sllimangkhalaham in Ban Huay.



Where to stay on Don Khong:

In Muang Khong:


Don Khong Guesthouse 1
: Choice of rooms with fan or aircon (upstairs). Upstairs you find a balcony with reclining chairs and you overlook the Mekong River. The guesthouse rents bikes and you can book transportation to Pakse and Si Phan Don.

Picture by marhas

Picture by Don Khong Guesthouse


Mali Guesthouse: 30 USD. Ban Kangkhong.


Mekong Inn: Ban Kangkong. 250m south of the boat landing. Fan rooms with shared bath are on the wooden second floor, air-con rooms with attached bath on the concrete first floor. Good review on travelfish.org. Read also the review by Free Pants.

Picture by marhas



Villa Muong Khong Hotel: 22 rooms in bungalows with air-con and bathrooms with hot showers. Bicycles can be rented here. Good reviews on holidaycheck


Picture Muong Khong Villa


Pon Arena Hotel and Pon's River Guest House: "It feels more like a small hotel than a guesthouse", comments travelfish.org. In fact a hotel has been added not far from the guesthouse.

Picture marhas
Pon's Guest House with the small road along the Mekong

Picture marhas
Pon's Arena Hotel

Picture marhas

Picture Pon's Arena Hotel




Souk Sabay Don Khong: Next door to Pon's guesthouse. "The rooms here are nothing special", comments travelfish.org.

Picture by marhas


Senesothxuen Hotel: From 50 USD.

Picture Senesothxuen Hotel


Souksan Guesthouse: From 35 USD. One kilometer from the boat landing. With air-con and hot-water bath. The former dorm-style accommodation was replaced with a new building. There are also bungalows and a restaurant with Chinese, Lao and Thai food at the river. Critical review on travelfish.org


Villa Kang Khong: From 15 USD. Aircon from 15 USD. Resembles a traditional Lao wooden house, 12 rooms. They rent bikes. Good review on tripadvisor.com. "Try for an upstairs room though as the downstairs ones are a bit dark and cellar-like", is the advise of travelfish.org.

Picture marhas1
See also pictures by Ben and mypuffin



On Mekong River from Don Khong to Don Det

Picture by marhas
Leavinmg from Don Khong

Picture by marhas

Picture by marhas
One of 4000 islands

Picture by marhas

Picture by marhas
Car ferry to Don Khong

Picture by marhas


Picture by marhas



Picture by marhas

Picture by marhas
Another of the 4000 islands...

Picture by Naomi
...and more of them

Picture by marhas
French Bridge between Don Khon and Don Det, with mountains in Cambodia

Picture by marhas
Arriving at Ban Nakasong



Don Det

See the locations on
Don Det Google Map

Picture by Tozbee

Picture patrikmioeff

Picture katiew

Picture by marhas
The French Pier on Don Det - the end of a railway, that started on Don Khon, to move goods from the lower side of the Mekong Falls to the upper side, because ships could not get trough.

Don Det can be quite full of backpackers you may have met before on Khao San Road in Bangkok. It's no longer the quiet spot you may be looking for. "The northern tip of Don Dhet - where the boats set down - has become very heavily developed towards backpacking tourism. Cafes, restaurants, pseudo-bars, tour and travel agents and (slooooooow) internet cafes", notes Stevie_Wes on travelbuddy.com. But he adds, that it's relative here: "It is quiet. Super-relaxed. And not over-hustled or bustled by either touts or tourists. Yes ‘happy’ food stuffs and drinks and ‘buckets’ are available but not shoved down your throat."

A guide for Don Det you find on travelfish.org


Where to stay on Don Det:

Little Eden: See their homepage. Good reviews on tripadvisor.com. Read how the Belgian Mathieu started the guesthouse and see pictures of Little Eden on Jenni & Michael's Blog

Mr. Mo Guest House:

Mr. Thos Bungalow: Read about on booking.com


King Kong Bungalows:

Picture by marhas
King Kong Restaurant


Nouphit Guest House: See picture by fritz_da_kat


River Garden Guesthouse:

Picture by marhas


Santiphab Guesthouse:


Souksan Guesthouse:

Picture by marhas


Thawan Daeng Guesthouse:



Don Khone

See the locations on Don Khon Google Map


Picture goflashbacker
Mekong sunset, seen from Salaphae.

Picture Veigo
Sunset in Don Khon

Picture Naomi
French colonial railway bridge between Don Khon and Don Det

Picture by marhas>
What's left of the French railway

Picture marhas
French school on Don Khon

Picture by marhas
Chan Thouma Restaurant

Picture by marhas
Wat Khon Tai

Picture mypuffin
Wat Khon Tai



Where to stay on Don Khon:

Kampheng Guesthouse: Wood and bamboo bungalow, no electricity, cold shower.


Pakha Guesthouse: Read reviews on tripadvisor.com.


Pan's Guesthouse: From 18 USD. Bungalows with river or garden view, at the riverfront, facing Don Det. Here you can book tours in and around Si Phan Don and rent bicycles or motorbikes and hire minivans and boats with drivers. Internet is available. See picture by planettreasures

Picture by marhas


Sala Done Khone: From 22 USD. Spacious, nicely decorated rooms in an old teak house in French colonial style and three floating studios. All of the rooms have air-con plus private bath with hot showers. "The main building has been refurbished without interfering with its historic character", adds travelfish.org. Good reviews on tripadvisor.com - except for one complaning about a house party all night long om opposite Don Det. Can arrange boat trips for Khonephapheng waterfall.

Picture by saladonekone


Seng Ahloune Guesthouse: Fro, 34 USD. Wooden bungalows are raised on stilts, set around the garden and on the river front.

Picture Seng Ahloune


Somphamit Guesthouse: 10 USD. Six guestrooms in three wooden buildings on stilts with communal balconies. Simple fan rooms with mosquito net. Next door to Sala Dhone Khone. Go for one of the new bungalows, is the advise of travelfish.org.

Picture Somphanit Guesthouse


Xaymontri Residence: From 09 USD. Good option off the river according to travelfish.org

Picture by marhas



Khone Phapheng Falls

Picture Veigo

Picture Pretre

Picture patrikmloeff

How to arrive here: Take a boat to Ban Nakasong. (20 minutes from Don Khon, 5 minutes from Don Det). Take a Tuktuk to the falls, ask for at least two hours staying at the falls.



Somphamit Falls, also called Li Phi Falls

Picture by marhas

Picture Tozbee

Picture Pretre

Li Phi means "spirit trap" in local words. Many Lao people believe the falls catch ghosts and spirits. But there is also another explanation for the name: During the Indochina-war dead bodies were dumped in the Mekong and carried into the fish traps near the falls. This story was reported by The Nation


Si Phan Don by boat-tour:



Picture melomelo
What's more funny?


Read more:
Trekking around Kiet Ngong and Phapho wetlands - in Xe Pian National Protected Area
Champasak, Vat Phou and Lingaparvata
Is there a Future for the Mekong Dolphins?
Don Sahon Dam project threatens Mekong Dolphins

1 comment:

  1. What a great overview of 4000 islands. I cant wait to go back.
    thanks for the photo link : )

    ReplyDelete