Golden Boten City has been closed down - will it wake up again with help from China?

Picture by sama sama - massa
Chinese shops along the road in Boten

In Oudomxay province, a mountainous region south of the Chinese border in northern Laos you can see the effects of foreign investment by Chinese business in Laos, notes chinadialogue.net. In 2002, the Lao government earmarked the region for development including hotels, casinos and commercial centres. Sitting on the Chinese border next to Route 3, the town of Boten (磨丁市) was designated a Special Economic Zone. And the big plans led to a big name: "Boten Golden City". The 21 square kilometers on which the town sits have been leased for 30 years by a Hong Kong-registered company, led by Wong Man Suen, with an option to extend this lease by another 60 years, as Asia Times Online noted. The main road, was paved. Chinese workers poured into the Boten Special Economic Zone as construction sites and towering hotels sprang up amid the verdant hills. Dominating the landscape of Boten is the 271-room Royal Jinlun hotel and casino complex, and there were Chinese restaurants, cell-phone outlets, duty free shops and stalls selling cheap Chinese products. It was illegal for Laotians to gamble, in was also illegal for Chinese in China, but Chinese could simply walk across the border without a visa. The town worked on Beijing time, accepted only Chinese currency and spoke only Mandarin Chinese. Electricity and telephone lines ran from China, and electric sockets adhered to Chinese standards. The growing numbers of prostitutes that patrolled the streets were all Chinese, as were the beer and the cigarettes (see pictures by Midnitemapper).

But in April 2011 the casino was shut down after Chinese authorities had urged their neighbors in Laos to do so. This after media reports that Chinese gamblers were held hostage in Boten for unpaid debts. Most shop and restaurant owners then packed up and left, the same did a Thai transvestite show and the Chinese prostitutes. "The enclave’s economy seems to have collapsed just as the builders hit their stride with a new high-rise hotel and a shopping centre bristling with columns in the classical style", reports Lone Rider. Ron Gluckman wrote in Forbes Asia Magazine that the owners of Golden Boten City were looking out for new investors.

In March 2012 Vientiane Times reported that an unnamed Chinese investor had taken over and that Golden Boten City would become a casino-free zone and that the Lao goverment changed the area from a Special Economic Zone to a Specific Economic Zone. The move gives the Luang Namtha provincial administration greater power to control social and security issues. Officials said the new investor wanted to transform Boten Golden City into a tourism destination showcasing the Lue culture. The Lue ethnic group lives along the Lao, Thai and Chinese borders. The investor is said to have put the Lue culture on stage in Xishuangbana in Yunnan province (China) and in Chiang Mai province of Thailand.

In April 2012 came the news, that the Lao government signed a new agreement with Yunnan Hai Cheng Industrial Group Stock Co. and - surprisingly - again Wong Man Suen’s Hong Kong Fuk Hing Travel Entertainment Group. The investors are said to invest 500 Millions US-Dollars.

But until now not much has changed in Boten. Jack Kurtz, a photojournalist based in Bangkok, travelled to Oudomxay last month to document the effect of China’s investment on the landscape and local people. He found sparkling new shopping centres empty of customers – the goods are too expensive for the local people – and a landscape dotted with cranes, construction and trucks. The development, particularly the paving of the road, has transformed life for many in the province, drawing people down from homes in the mountains to earn a living from tourists or truck drivers who frequent the road.

Picture by Prince Roy
The Royal Hotel in Boten

Chinese money brings big change:A railway from the North of Laos to Vientianeand Thailand

China has just opened the worlds longest Highspeed-Railway from Beijing in the north along 2298 km to the southern boom city of Guangzhou. There were a lot of international headlines around the first train on this line. And they helped to forget the big problems with Chinese Highspeed Trains as the Wenzou train collision in the not so far past.

But the Chinese Railway policy has much bigger ambitions. It is under way to create a Highspeed Railway System in Southeast Asia, linking China to Laos and Thailand and creating connections from China to Singapore.

Laos is forcing plans for a $7 billion railway link from the capital Vientiane in the South to the Chinese border in the North (passing the towns of Phonhong, Vangvieng, Luang Prabang, Oudomxay and Luang Namtha). The construction shall begin early in 2013. The line will be completed around 2014, said Laotian Deputy Prime Minister Somsavat Lengsavad at an international rail conference in Beijing. "While the exact route isn't clear, the rail line is expected to connect the southwest Chinese city of Kunming with Singapore, passing through Laos, Thailand and Malaysia", wrote wsj.com.

The project is financed by a 30-year loan from Export-Import Bank of China, according to rfa.org. China will be responsible for the construction. "Beijing is seeking to secure raw materials from neighboring countries to feed massive infrastructure investment and its manufacturing industry", wrote wsj.com. There is one more railway project in Laos: On December 24 a contract was signed for a US $5 billion railway line from Savannakhet to Lao Bao at Vietnam border. The construction is undertaken by Malaysian company Giant Consolidated, writes enjoy-laos.com.

Meanwhile preparations for four highspeed-railway lines in Thailand are going on. Funding is to come from a proposed 2-trillion-baht investment programme dedicated to new infrastructure projects over the next seven years. In November 2012 Finance Minister Kittiratt Na-Ranong said according to Bangkok Post the government is planning four high-speed rail lines to support trade and tourism within the country. The four high-speed rail lines are Bangkok-Nong Khai-Vientiane; Bangkok-Ayutthaya-Chiang Mai; Bangkok to Hua Hin; and an expansion of the Airport Rail Link in Bangkok to Chon Buri, Pattaya and Rayong. These plans are supported by a Study of Thailand Development Research Institute Foundation. And China is aggressively lobbying the Thai government to select its train and construction technology, writes Bangkok Post. Chinese Deputy Railways Minister Lu Chunfang told Prime Minister Yingluck Shinawatra that its construction costs average only US$20 million per kilometre compared with $81 million in Japan and $50 million in Germany. Thailand and China signed a memorandum of understanding on April 15 to conduct a feasibility study for the Bangkok-Chiang Mai and Bangkok-Nong Khai high-speed rail links. Thailands government plans to open international bidding early next year on the first phase of the high-speed rail project. Chinese government officials advising Thailand have suggested that it begins with a 54km route linking Bangkok and Ayutthaya as it would fall in line with the government's push to have the ancient capital serve as host for the 2020 World Expo, noted Bangkok Post.


Update from April 5 in 2013:

The ruling Party in Laos has given the go-ahead to the government to officially negotiate the controversial US-Dollar 7.2 billion loan with China to finance the high-speed railway project linking the two countries, notes Radio Free Asia.


Read also:
Growing Chinese influence in Cambodia: A railway from Preah Vihear, a steel plant and a seaport in Koh Kong

China and Laos: An Uneasy Embrace
by Prashanth Parameswaran for The Jamestown Foundation

Tours from Vientiane: Go tubing or organic farming in Vang Vieng

See the locations on Vang Vieng Google Map by #treasuresoflaos


Picture by Stéphane P. ROUSSEAU

Picture by Ben and Debs Blench What Vang Vieng is famous for: tubing in Nam Song River

Picture by JonasPhoto
A lot of traffic on the river

Tubing in Vang Vieng - this is about fun among halfnaked young people, bars, drinks, bumping music, dancing, sometimes drugs, hangovers - and sometimes accidents: People jump into the river and break their bones on rocks or people drink too much, cannot swim and drown. It's about the same things as every where on the world, where young people go for fun and partying. Read how Adventurous Kate sees it. And she writes about Death and Dangers. See also the restaurant menue with opium tea and mushroom magics, documented on Blog of the Morning Calm. Then see this video on youtube.com about a broken skull. On Global Post an article asks: Vang Vieng, Laos: backpacker mecca turned disaster magnet? and offers a lot of insight. For example: The Vang Vieng region had 90 hotels/guesthouses in 2003; in 2009 there were 222. More insights on guardian.co.uk: Vang Vieng, Laos: the world's most unlikely party town

Vang Vieng: By discoveryindochina.com


Hotels and Resorts in Vang Vieng


Riverside Boutique Resort: Pool with amazing view, balconies with view of the scenery, breakfast with many options according to reviews on tripadvisor.com.

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Amari Vang Vieng: Balconies with stunning view of Nam Song River and the mountains. Largest hotel in Vang Vieng with good service and also a gym and a good restaurant according to reviews on tripadvisor.com.


Diamond Gold Hotel (Formerly Thavonsouk Hotel and Resort): "One of the most beautiful locations", according to tripadvisor.com. See a video about the early morining view from the porch of a ropm by Prince Roy.

Picture by Prince Roy
View from the porch of the riverside room

Picture by madaboutasia


Vansana Vang Vieng Resort: Quite good reviews on tripadvisor.com



Guesthouses in Vang Vieng
Domon River Guesthouse: Spacious rooms with balcony looking over the river towards the mountains. No breakfast. Can be noisy until early in the morning because bars are around. See pictures on tripadvisor.com

Kamphone Guesthouse: Phone (023) 511 062. "The location at the north end of town is far enough from the party that it's quiet at night, but thin walls mean you can hear your neighbours", comments travelfish.org


Malany Villa 1: Mixed reviews on tripadvisor.com


Happy Riverview Hotel: Quite good reviews on tripadvisor.com

Picture by careybaird


Nana Guesthouse:


Pan's Place: Rooms and bungalows, run by a Lao lady and an old hippie from New Zealand. Very good reviews on tripadvisor.com, it's quiet. See view from Pan's Place on flickr.com


Phoubane Guesthouse: "If you want cheap accomodation this is what you get", notes one review von tripadvisor.com


Saphaothong Guesthouse: "Like many of the other aging guesthouses in town, Saphaothong's fixtures and fittings are fading fast compared to the shiny new developments", a guest comments on travelblog.org.


Sisavang Guesthouse: From 8 USD.


Thavisouk Hotel & Resort: A main building and bungalows. Mixed reviews on tripadvisor.com


Viengvilay Guesthouse:


Villa Nam Song: Very good reviews on tripadvisor.com



Stay outside Vang Vieng

Inthavong Guesthouse: Has a swimming pool - "not maintained and dirty", notes one guest on tripadvisors.com about the pool.


Maylyn Guesthouse: From 40 000 Kip. On the west side of Nam Song River. A twenty minutes walk from town (you have to cross a toll bridge for 4000 Kip). 15 bungalow rooms in a lush garden full of butterflies. "The slightly wild gardens, teaming with gorgeous butterflies (particularly in the early morning hours) hold charmingly basic wooden bungalows and bamboo terrace rooms", notes travelfish.org. Very good reviews on tripadvisor.com. Bicycles can be rented. See video by mrbund

Picture by Sven&Moniek
May Lyn Guesthouse


Vang Vieng Eco Lodge: From 29 USD. Ban Viengsamay. The Ecolodge is just past Viengsamy, 8 kms north of Vang Vieng and a 15 minute drive from the town centre. Basic rooms in bungalows with fan, no aircon. The restaurant on a deck overlooks the Nam Song river. Kayaks can be rented. "The staff can arrange a tuk tuk to city centre for about 40.000 kip (one way). Back the prices are a bit higher, maybe 50.000 kip", notes Bosbreur on tripadvisor.com. A quiet location for people, who want to join Lao local life. Small shop in the village nearby. See a video by Hennephof of youtube.com



Join the organic experience in Vang Vieng

Organic farm: 4 km north of the town in the village of Phoudindaeng. Vangvieng Organic Farm promotes the use of natural materials and traditional methods for growing its crops and raising its animals. It offers accommodation for visitors and volunteers and operates an organic food restaurant. The Farm is located in the village of Phoudindaeng, about 4 km north of Vangvieng on the banks of the Nam Song river. Organic Farm was founded by Thanongsi Sorangkoun in 1996 with the goal of introducing organic farming methods in an area where chemicals and deforestation were ruining the land. The farm produces mulberry trees, mulberry tea and mulberry vine as well as banana liquor, organic fruits, vegetables, poultry and goat cheese.

Picture by thomaswanhoff
Guest house at organic farm

Picture by thomaswanhoff
Mulberry plantation



Discover the limestone caves in Vang Vieng

Tham Phu Kham: About six kilometres south of the town, half an hour bei Tuk-Tuk. Climb 600ft up boulders and the rockface, to get to the entrance, then climb down into the cavern with its reclining Buddha (see picture). Read laos.eegc.org.
Picture by juliansong


Tham Chiang: Also: Tham Jiang, Tham Chang. In the Vang Vieng Resort complex. Easy to access. It was used by the local people as a bunker in defense against the Jiin Haw (Yunnanese Chinese) in the early 19th century. At the base of the cave its possible to swim 80m into the cave. Beautiful views of Vang Vieng from the entry. Read more on laos.eegc.org
.

Picture by Gusjer
The path towards the mountain, where Tham Chiang cave is inside

Picture by Rory OBrien

Picture Rory OBrien
Pretty river for swimming near the entrance of Tham Chiang cave


Tham Lom: About 3 km from the town. Read more on laos.eegc.org


Tham Nam Xang (Elephant Cave): At km 48 on Route 13. Near Tham Xang village. Head towards the river, cross the bridge and about 100 m ahead is the cave. You find here an sanctuary, over 300 years older than the Lane Xang Kingdom: 5 large pink sandstone sculptures and 2 huge Buddha images. Read more and on laos.eegc.org


Picture by Pigalle


Tham Hoi: Read more on laos.eegc.org


Tham Loup: Read more on laos.eegc.org


Day tour to caves by greendiscoverylaos.com


Read more about on tubing down a cave


Tham None: One of the biggest caves in Vang Vieng, it served as a rescue shelter during the Second Indochina War. Today it is home to a bat colony and The Magic Stone of Vang Vieng.


Climb the limestone carsts

The limestone carst landscape around Vang Vieng attracts rock climbers. Green Discovery and Adam's Climbing School offer half- and fullday courses with their instructors. More informations on summitpost.org


Go kayaking

Kayaking is offered by Green Discovery Laos and often starts at Viengsamay, a Khmu village about 10 km north of Vang Vieng and goes down Nam Song River, see video on youtube. But there is also a day trip to Nam Lik, a very scenic river. Also Vang Vieng Tours offer kayaking trips.


Go for birds on Nong Nok

Nong Nok (bird lake) at Ban Sivilay Village, a community-managed birds sanctuary with hundreds of ducks and egrets roosting here.

See Vang Vieng Area Map by Hobomaps.

Relax in Vientiane

See the locations on Vientiane Spa and Massage Google Map


Adina Spa: Kaysone Phomivane Road. "Massive doors swing open onto a scene out of Lao myth. Gilded statues shimmer in the sun, surrounded by flower-scented treatment rooms and a tangle of gardens", notes "The Globe and Mail". Read one review on tripadvisor.com and one on tashinlaos.blogspot.com.

Champa Spa Massage: Corner of Pangkhan and Fa Ngum Rd. At Lane Xang Hotel. See a video by earthmagictours and a video of Lao Traditional Aromatherapy Massage

Champa Lao Spa: In Lao Green Park Boutique Hotel

Chantra Spa: Bann Wat Chanh, 139 Unit 12. At Le Leela Hotel.

LV City Massage and Spa: 149 T2 (Nong Douang) Rd.

Mixay Massage: 11 Francois Ngin Rd

Nirvana Spa: Pangkham Road

Oasis Spa: Francois Ngin Rd

Papaya Spa: Read reviews on tripadvisor.com. "The empress of Vientiane spas", comments "The Globe and Mail"

Spa Heaven: At Nong Chanh Water Park.

The Mandarina: 101-3 SamsenthaiRd. "A foot massage in a silk-draped chair is the ideal coda to a few hours poking through Hmong silver jewellery, vintage textiles and collections from under-the-radar local designers", writes "The Globe and Mail"

Vientiane Healthy Massage: Read review by Thomas Wanhoff

Read more about massage in Vientiane on travelfish.org

Tours from Vientiane: Nam Ngum Lake

See the locarions on Nam Ngum Lake Google Map


Picture by daveperkes

Picture by ckhamken

The reservoir lake of Nam Ngum is located about 90 kilometers north of Vientiane, at the end of route 10. There are many small islands. Near Ban Tha Ngon a bridge crosses the Nam Ngum River. Here you find floating restaurants serving fresh fish and other Laotian specialties. Nam Ngum Reservoir was the Lao PDR’s first hydro-power dam, constructed in 1971.


Dansavanh Nam Ngum Resort Casino: It has an 18-hole golf course



Vansana Nam Ngum Resort: At Ban Keun.


Nam Ngum Lake Tour: By toursbylocals.

Pakse - the southern door to Laos

See the locations on Pakse Google Map by #treasuresoflaos

Picture by marhas
Sunset in Pakse



Picture by marhas
Time for a Lao beer at Hongfa Restaurant...

Picture by marhas
...with an impressive view of the Mekong River


Picture by marhas
Small traffic on road 13


Picture by marhas
Some buildings with old flair


Picture by marhas
Also the red communist flags are part of the old flair. But US-Dollars are welcome everywhere.


Picture by Nataraj Metz


Picture by marhasOld decorations, seen from road 11

Picture by marhas
Shophouse near Champasak Plaza


Vat Luang:

Picture by Nataraj Metz

Picture by h.hoefl

Picture by marhas
Temple cats

Picture by marhas

Picture marhas

Picture by marhas

Picture by Veigo


Vat Tham Fai

Picture Nataraj Metz

Picture Nataraj Metz


Picture by Naomi
Outside fruit and vegetables market as it used to be...

Picture KuBa
...and the modern Champasak Plaza with escalators inside


Mekong River:

Picture by Naomi
In dry season the river banks are used as farmland, in the wet season they are under water


Chinese Association:

Picture by marhas

Picture by marhas


Xe Don River:

Picture by Nataraj Metz


Picture by marhas
Sunset over Pakse and the Mekong River



Where to stay

Champasak Palace Hotel: From 26 USD. Ask for a room with terrace towards Xe Don River and you will have a peaceful setting in front of you. And if you stay on the east wing, it will also be quiet, otherwise you may here music from tourgroups, who like karaoke...

Picture marhas

Picture by marhas

This hotel has an outstanding architecture. It has been built from 1968 by the Prince of Champasak, Chao Boun Oum, Prime Minister of the royal governmemt from 1960 to 1962 and an ally of France and the USA (read a story by Harward Crimson). Before the palace was finished, the communist Pathet Lao mouvement took ower the power in Laos and Boun Oum had to flee to France. The palace now was used by the state. In 1995 a Thai company took it over, completed the building and opened the hotel. About the hotel you read mixed reviews on tripadvisor.com. The quality of the rooms seems to be different, the breakfast is not great but the meals for lunch and dinner are well done. From the top of the hotel you ennjoy a great view across Pakse.

Picture by Veigo

Picture by marhas

Picture by marhas
Terrace towards Xe Don River

Picture by marhas
Russian bridge across Xe Don River


Picture marhasWunderful floor in the restaurant

Picture by marhas

by marhas
In the garden restaurant

Picture by marhas
The spirit house


Arawan Riverside Hotel: From 35 USD. Not so good review on tripadvisor.com. Better reviews on agoda.com

Picture Nataraj Metz


Champasak Grand Hotel: From 45 USD. Lao Nippon Bridge Mekong Riverside. A comfortable hotel, often used by Asian tour groups, but quite distant (3 km) from the town centre. Quite good reviews on tripadvisor.com.



Pakse Hotel: From 25 USD. Eco rooms without windows, rooms on the top floor with fine views, according to travelfish.org

Picture -=KuBa=-.

The rooftop restaurant. See Tennessee Embassy's views from the rooftop restaurant.


Laochaleun Hotel: "Average" is the rating of travelfish.org

Picture marhas


Lankham Hotel:

Picture marhas

Picture marhas


Royal Pakse Hotel:

Picture marhas


Salachampa Hotel:

Picture rjhintz


Seng Aroun Hotel: From 24 USD. 13 Road. Clean rooms, but a bit small, says travelfish.org. Good reviews on tripadvisor.com

Picture marhas


Thaluang Hotel: From 10 USD.




Guesthouses:

Phonsavanh Guesthouse: From 4 USD. Basic rooms according to petitfute.com, see room-picture by escapade-asie.blogspot.com

Picture marhas


Sabaidy 2: Good reviews on tripadvisor.com. Most popular backpacker choice according to travelfish.org.


Where to eat

Café Sinouk:

Picture by marhas

Picture by marhas

Picture marhas
At Champady you sip an exzellent coffee.



How to arrive

By Bus

From Ubon Ratchathani: Bus by https://www.transport.co.th/. Leaving Ubon Ratchathani at 7.30 and 9.30 pm. And returning from Pakse Champasak road 14.30 and 15.30.
Help for finding the timetable on transport.co.th: On top orange navigation bar choose first tab from left, go down to second listing, this opens grey drop down menu, drive with the mouse over each option and look at the URL in bottom bar of your browser window, you will see north, northeast, pakse, etc at the end of the URL, then click your destination.

You can also take a bus to Chong Mek at the Lao border and then a minibus zu Pakse. Or you take a taxi to Chong Mek and from there another taxi zu Pakse.
You will get a visa on arrival at the border of Laos.



Tours from Pakse

Discovery Indochina: Half day to Tad Fane Waterfalls, ethnic minority villages of the Lavai and Yaheune tribes and a tea and coffee plantation. One day to Vat Phu, first by boat to Champasak, after Vat Phu 2 hours elephant tour from Ban Khiet Ngong to Phu Asa temple.
SODETOUR (Societe de Developpernent Touristique): On the corner of Rte 13 and Thanon Tha Luang
Lane Xang Travel & Tours: Next to the Suksamlan Hotel on Thanon Wat Luang
Inter-Lao Tourisme: on the ground floor of the Champasak Palace Hotel.