Sunday, June 2, 2024

Si Phan Don ສີ່​ພັນ​ດອນ - 4000 islands in the Mekong

See the locations on Si Phan Don Google Map by #treasuresoflaos
See the Pakse Weather Forecast


Picture magical-world
Boats in the evening sun


"Si Phan Don" in Lao means "4000 islands". Around 110 to 60 kilometres down from Pakse the Mekong River forms different streams and these form hunders of islands. More than 60 000 people are living here, mainly from fishing. And here you find also the Irrawaddy Dolphins. See a picture by WWF. The best time to see the Irrawaddy dolphins is in the morning or in the late afternoon. But: Be aware: The Mekong Dolphin is endangered. Read: Is there a future for the Mekong Dolphin?


The best time to visit Si Phan Don is between November and January when the weather is cool and dry.


Picture Pretre
Mekong River at Si Phan Don

Picture takwing.kwong



How to arrive

By bus:

Pakse-Don Khong: From Southern Bus Terminal in Pakse buses or Songthaews leave several times between 10 am and 3 pm. After 120 km (three hours) you arrive by ferry in Muang Khong.

Pakse-Don Khon/Don Det: From Southern Bus Terminal in Pakse buses or Songthaews for Ban Nakasang leave several times between 7.30 am and 3 pm (three to four hours), then you take the longtailboat to Don Khon or Don Det.

Ubon Ratchathani-Pakse-Khon Phapeng Waterfalls: Air-conditioned buses operate on Friday, Saturday, Sunday and public holidays. The bus leaves Ubon Ratchathani at 0730 and arrives at the waterfall in southern Laos around noon. From Khone Phapheng it departs at 1400 and arrives in Ubon Ratchathani around 1830. The bus stops in Pakse for people who want to overnight there. For more information call Ubon Ratchathani’s bus station (045 314 299) or the Transport Company at 1490.

By car: There is a car ferry from Ban Hat to Ban Na on Don Khong island.



Don Khong ດອນ ໂຂງ - the big island

See the locations on Don Khong Google Map by #treasuresoflaos

Picture mypfuffin
Rice field

Don Khong is the main island, the big one, as lokal people say, when they want to prevent you from mistaking it with Don Khon, which lies near the Mekong waterfalls. Don Khong is 18 km long and 8 km wide. The island can easily discovered by bicycles, which can be rented from a woman on the street near the pier of Muang Khong or also in the guesthouses. On the bike you will discover a quiet rural life. But don't forget a hat, to protect your head from the strong sun.


Muang Khong
Muang Khong is the main village - a former French settlement. A large gold Buddha in the subduing Mara pose is overlooking the Mekong at Vat Phuang Kaew, also known as Vat Kan Khong:

Picture by marhas

Picture by marhas

Picture by marhas


Vat Chom Thong at the upstream end of the village dates from the Chao Anou period (1805-1828). You find a Khmer-influenced sim with an unusual cruciform floor plan and carved wooden window shutters:

Picture by marhas

Picture by marhas

Picture by marhas
Khmer influenced door

The naga heads on the roof of the main sim spill water from their mouths during raintime. Coconut and betel palms and Mango trees give the temple grounds some shade.


View across the Mekong towards Hat Xai Khun and its temple:

Picture by marhas



Muang Saen

Muang Saen is a little village with view to the Cambodian boarder across the Mekong.
By bicycle it's about 45 minutes from Muang Khong. About 6 km north of Ban Muang Saen Nua you arrive at Wat Phou Khao Kaew (Glass Hill Monastery.

Picture patrikmioeff

Wat Phouang Keo

An entrance leads to the underground location of the nagas (Muang Nak). The legend says, the nagas will come to the surface to protect the Lao poeple when the country is in danger.


Ban Hua Khong

Ban Hua Khong at the north-western end of Don Khong was in 1924 the birthplace 0r Khamtay Siphandone, who became a postman and later the president of Laos. He has renovated Wat Hua Khong Pha Nyai with a cement seated Buddha image in the main sim.


At the southern tip of the island you discover two small villages: Ban Huay and Ban Hang Khong. Here Wat Thepsulin Phudin Hang Khong, also known as Wat Hang Khong, has spacious grounds and a small sim. Nearby is a carved and painted wooden Buddha sanctuary and the dharma sermon hall. Then there is Wat Sllimangkhalaham in Ban Huay.



Where to stay on Don Khong:

In Muang Khong:


Don Khong Guesthouse 1
: Choice of rooms with fan or aircon (upstairs). Upstairs you find a balcony with reclining chairs and you overlook the Mekong River. The guesthouse rents bikes and you can book transportation to Pakse and Si Phan Don.

Picture by marhas

Picture by Don Khong Guesthouse


Mali Guesthouse: 30 USD. Ban Kangkhong.


Mekong Inn: Ban Kangkong. 250m south of the boat landing. Fan rooms with shared bath are on the wooden second floor, air-con rooms with attached bath on the concrete first floor. Good review on travelfish.org. Read also the review by Free Pants.

Picture by marhas



Villa Muong Khong Hotel: 22 rooms in bungalows with air-con and bathrooms with hot showers. Bicycles can be rented here. Good reviews on holidaycheck


Picture Muong Khong Villa


Pon Arena Hotel and Pon's River Guest House: "It feels more like a small hotel than a guesthouse", comments travelfish.org. In fact a hotel has been added not far from the guesthouse.

Picture marhas
Pon's Guest House with the small road along the Mekong

Picture marhas
Pon's Arena Hotel

Picture marhas

Picture Pon's Arena Hotel




Souk Sabay Don Khong: Next door to Pon's guesthouse. "The rooms here are nothing special", comments travelfish.org.

Picture by marhas


Senesothxuen Hotel: From 50 USD.

Picture Senesothxuen Hotel


Souksan Guesthouse: From 35 USD. One kilometer from the boat landing. With air-con and hot-water bath. The former dorm-style accommodation was replaced with a new building. There are also bungalows and a restaurant with Chinese, Lao and Thai food at the river. Critical review on travelfish.org


Villa Kang Khong: From 15 USD. Aircon from 15 USD. Resembles a traditional Lao wooden house, 12 rooms. They rent bikes. Good review on tripadvisor.com. "Try for an upstairs room though as the downstairs ones are a bit dark and cellar-like", is the advise of travelfish.org.

Picture marhas1
See also pictures by Ben and mypuffin



On Mekong River from Don Khong to Don Det

Picture by marhas
Leavinmg from Don Khong

Picture by marhas

Picture by marhas
One of 4000 islands

Picture by marhas

Picture by marhas
Car ferry to Don Khong

Picture by marhas


Picture by marhas



Picture by marhas

Picture by marhas
Another of the 4000 islands...

Picture by Naomi
...and more of them

Picture by marhas
French Bridge between Don Khon and Don Det, with mountains in Cambodia

Picture by marhas
Arriving at Ban Nakasong



Don Det

See the locations on
Don Det Google Map

Picture by Tozbee

Picture patrikmioeff

Picture katiew

Picture by marhas
The French Pier on Don Det - the end of a railway, that started on Don Khon, to move goods from the lower side of the Mekong Falls to the upper side, because ships could not get trough.

Don Det can be quite full of backpackers you may have met before on Khao San Road in Bangkok. It's no longer the quiet spot you may be looking for. "The northern tip of Don Dhet - where the boats set down - has become very heavily developed towards backpacking tourism. Cafes, restaurants, pseudo-bars, tour and travel agents and (slooooooow) internet cafes", notes Stevie_Wes on travelbuddy.com. But he adds, that it's relative here: "It is quiet. Super-relaxed. And not over-hustled or bustled by either touts or tourists. Yes ‘happy’ food stuffs and drinks and ‘buckets’ are available but not shoved down your throat."

A guide for Don Det you find on travelfish.org


Where to stay on Don Det:

Little Eden: See their homepage. Good reviews on tripadvisor.com. Read how the Belgian Mathieu started the guesthouse and see pictures of Little Eden on Jenni & Michael's Blog

Mr. Mo Guest House:

Mr. Thos Bungalow: Read about on booking.com


King Kong Bungalows:

Picture by marhas
King Kong Restaurant


Nouphit Guest House: See picture by fritz_da_kat


River Garden Guesthouse:

Picture by marhas


Santiphab Guesthouse:


Souksan Guesthouse:

Picture by marhas


Thawan Daeng Guesthouse:



Don Khone

See the locations on Don Khon Google Map


Picture goflashbacker
Mekong sunset, seen from Salaphae.

Picture Veigo
Sunset in Don Khon

Picture Naomi
French colonial railway bridge between Don Khon and Don Det

Picture by marhas>
What's left of the French railway

Picture marhas
French school on Don Khon

Picture by marhas
Chan Thouma Restaurant

Picture by marhas
Wat Khon Tai

Picture mypuffin
Wat Khon Tai



Where to stay on Don Khon:

Kampheng Guesthouse: Wood and bamboo bungalow, no electricity, cold shower.


Pakha Guesthouse: Read reviews on tripadvisor.com.


Pan's Guesthouse: From 18 USD. Bungalows with river or garden view, at the riverfront, facing Don Det. Here you can book tours in and around Si Phan Don and rent bicycles or motorbikes and hire minivans and boats with drivers. Internet is available. See picture by planettreasures

Picture by marhas


Sala Done Khone: From 22 USD. Spacious, nicely decorated rooms in an old teak house in French colonial style and three floating studios. All of the rooms have air-con plus private bath with hot showers. "The main building has been refurbished without interfering with its historic character", adds travelfish.org. Good reviews on tripadvisor.com - except for one complaning about a house party all night long om opposite Don Det. Can arrange boat trips for Khonephapheng waterfall.

Picture by saladonekone


Seng Ahloune Guesthouse: Fro, 34 USD. Wooden bungalows are raised on stilts, set around the garden and on the river front.

Picture Seng Ahloune


Somphamit Guesthouse: 10 USD. Six guestrooms in three wooden buildings on stilts with communal balconies. Simple fan rooms with mosquito net. Next door to Sala Dhone Khone. Go for one of the new bungalows, is the advise of travelfish.org.

Picture Somphanit Guesthouse


Xaymontri Residence: From 09 USD. Good option off the river according to travelfish.org

Picture by marhas



Khone Phapheng Falls

Picture Veigo

Picture Pretre

Picture patrikmloeff

How to arrive here: Take a boat to Ban Nakasong. (20 minutes from Don Khon, 5 minutes from Don Det). Take a Tuktuk to the falls, ask for at least two hours staying at the falls.



Somphamit Falls, also called Li Phi Falls

Picture by marhas

Picture Tozbee

Picture Pretre

Li Phi means "spirit trap" in local words. Many Lao people believe the falls catch ghosts and spirits. But there is also another explanation for the name: During the Indochina-war dead bodies were dumped in the Mekong and carried into the fish traps near the falls. This story was reported by The Nation


Si Phan Don by boat-tour:



Picture melomelo
What's more funny?


Read more:
Trekking around Kiet Ngong and Phapho wetlands - in Xe Pian National Protected Area
Champasak, Vat Phou and Lingaparvata
Is there a Future for the Mekong Dolphins?
Don Sahon Dam project threatens Mekong Dolphins

Thursday, May 30, 2024

#treasuresoflaos: Your Guide for Laos

#treasuresoflaos is a blog guide for individual travellers to the well known and hidden treasures of Laos with Google Maps. You discover Laos cities, countries and rivers through the eyes of people, who have been there. Learn about the growing influence of China in Laos - and the activities of the organized crime.


#treasuresoflaos: Your Guide to the Treasures of Vientiane

See the locations on Vientiane Google Map by #treasuresoflaos


. Not to miss, when your are in Vientiane

. Hotels and Guesthouses in Vientiane with reviews of people, who have been there

. Where to eat, when you are in Vientiane

. Nightlife in Vientiane

. Relax in Vientiane: Massage and Spas

. Eco-Lodges near Vientiane

. Tours from Vientiane: Nam Ngum Lake

. Tours from Vientiane: Go tubing or organic farming in Vang Vieng

. Tours from Vientiane: Join the nature at Phu Khao Khouay National Park

. Sanjiang Market: Chinas growing
influence in Vientiane




#treasuresoflaos: Your Guide to the South of Laos - Pakse, Champasak, Mekong and the 4000 islands



. Pakse - the southern door to Laos
See the locations on Pakse and Champasak Google Map by #treasuresoflaos

. Bolaven Plateau: Waterfalls everywhere -
and a Zip-Line system in the Jungle

See the locations on Bolevean Plateau Google Map
. Lao Power for Thailand: New dams on Bolaven Plateau affect the Dong Hua Sao National Biodiversity Conservation Area

. Trekking around Kiet Ngong and Phapho wetlands - in Xe Pian National Protected Area
See the locations on Xe Pian National Protected Area and Kiet Ngong Wetlands Google Map by #treasuresoflaos

. Champasak, Vat Phou and Lingaparvata
See the locations on Champasak and Vat Phou Google Map by treasuresoflaos
. Vat Phou in Champasak - the site and its history


. Si Phan Don ສີ່​ພັນ​ດອນ - 4000 islands in the Mekong
See the locations on Si Phan Don Google Map by #treasuresoflaos
. 4000 Islands in Mekong: From laid back Area to international Hotspot for Tourists




#treasuresoflaos: Your Guide for the Laos-China-Railway


From Kunming to Vientiane: The Crossborder Service of Lao-China-Railway has started
See stations and tunnels of China Laos Railway on Google Map by #treasuresoflaos

China-Laos Railway: Timetable, Tickets and Rules

History of Chinas Railway for Laos:
Track laying has arrived at Luang Prabang at the end of 2020


History of Chinas Railway for Laos: Fast Railway Building between Yuxi and Mohan in Yunnan

History: Chinese money brings big change: A railway from the North of Laos to Vientiane and Thailand



#treasuresoflaos: Your Guide for Luang Prabang and around

See the locations on Luang Prabang Google Map
. The Jewel at the Mekong
. Between heaven and earth: The Temples in Luang Prabang
. Hotels and Guesthouses in Luang Prabang
. Climb Mount Phousi and have an amazing view
. Markets in Luang Prabang
. Pha Tad Ke: A Dutchman's Faszination with Ethno-Botanism in Luang Prabang
. From Silk to Art: Shops and Galleries in Luang Prabang
. Lick your Lips in Luang Prabang: From Laotian to French Cuisine
. Puang Champa: A house for the traditional royal arts
. Dinner Cruise on Mekong
. Bibliophiles in Luang Prabang
. The Traditional Arts and Ethnology Centre
. Tours from Luang Prabang

. Another controversial Mekong Dam in Luang Prabang raises Fears
. Construction for Controversial Mekong Dam near Luang Prabang has progressed



#treasuresoflaos: Your Guide for the North of Laos

. Online Scam: How the Chinese Police raided the Golden Triangle Special Economic Zone in Laos
See the locations on Golden Triangle Special Economic Zone 金三角经济特区 Google map by #treasuresoflaos
. Bokeo International Airport: For two millions of Passengers - but only one Flight daily until now
. Inside Golden Triangle Special Economic Zone: A Chinese Zone in Laos, where Americans are not allowed in
. Will the Chinese Scam Networks relocate their Operations from Myanmar to Laos?
. Macao at Mekong: How Chinese money flows into the Golden Triangle

. Discover Luang Namtha ຫລວງນໍ້າທາ
See the locations on Discover Luang Namtha ຫລວງນໍ້າທາ Google Map



#treasuresoflaos: Laos - Mekong rivers as Power Battery of Southeast Asia


This guide is to be continued soon!

Monday, March 11, 2024

Online Scam: How the Chinese Police raided the Golden Triangle Special Economic Zone in Laos

See the locations on Golden Triangle Special Economic Zone 金三角经济特区 Google map

Once upon a time there was just a casino with a golden crown, that could be seen from Thailand across the Mekong river in Laos (picture from March 2017):



Today there is a city full of highrise buildings with signs in Chinese (video taken in 2023):



In the least populous province Bokoeo the tallest highrise building of Laos will soon dominate the bank of Mekong river: The new hotel will count 32 floors and be 146 meters high. And it is just one of several highrise complexes, which are growing along the river: Laos Xinyue City Center (鑫越城市中心项目) is the name of this project, constructed by Shanghai Baoye as general contractor. The residential section of the project is composed of 4 high-rise buildings, which are 92 to 97 meters high.

The project of Powerchina is located in the Golden Triangle Special Economic Zone (金三角经济特区) in Tonpheung. It is just the newest example of a construction boom, that has transformed the formerly rural area in the North of Laos, where the borders of Laos, Thailand and Myanmar meet, into a city. For millions of US-Dollars Bokeo International airport (博胶国际机场) and Golden Dragon Mountain International Golf Resort (金龙山国际高尔夫度假村) have been added lately.

The mastermind behind this development is Zhao Wei (趙偉, 70), a native of China's Heilongjiang province, now Chairman of the administration of the Golden Triangle Special Economic Zone. The businessman initiated this zone in 2007 having won a 99-year lease covering a vast area of 3,000 hectares from the Lao government. Before setting up in Laos Zhao Wei was a timber merchant and operated casinos in Macao and in Mong La, a town on the border between China's Yunnan province and a rebel-controlled area in Myanmar. The casino in Mong La operated under the name Blue Shield Entertainment mainly for customers from China, where gambling is prohibited. It got frequented by many Chinese officials, what led China to pressure Zhao Wei for closing this operation. Therefore he transfered his activities to Laos, where he invested under the name of Golden Kapok Group 金木棉集团 and built the Blue Shield Casino (蓝盾娱乐), also known als Kings Romans Casino.


The Kapok Star Hotel

Around this casino high rise buildings went up in the last years. The most prominent one is Kapok Star Hotel (木棉之星酒店), illuminated every night in spectacular colours. There are more hotels, shops and entertainment venues. Meanwhile everything in this special econonomic zone in Laos is Chinese: People spend yuan, speak Mandarin, vehicle license plate numbers are written in Chinese, signboards are written in Chinese and people may travel there visa-free from China. And if you look on Facebook and Instagram many young asian woman are presenting themselves: Prostitution and drugs are widespread in the special economic zone - although forbidden in Laos. And last year it got more and more obvious, that the Golden Triangle Special Economic Zone has become a hotspot for online fraud and human trafficking. Many people, who were lured with high-paying job offers, told the police and the media in China, Thailand, Malaysia, South Korea and other countries, how they were forced to work as online fraudsters, cheating internet users in many Asian countries and even were tortured, when they did not reach the fraud goals. In November 2023 the government of South Korea imposed a travel ban to the Golden Triangle Special Economic Zone to prevent citizens from becoming victims of fraud crime.


Enormous building activites along Mekong river

The facebook accounts of the Golden Triangle Special Economic Zone did not talk about online fraud for a long time. And Zhao Wei's own security force seemed not to intervene against the illegal activities. Lao officials - for example the Prime Minister - frequently visited the zone and seemed to be backing everything, what happened there. This changed dramatically at the end of the year 2023 and the beginning of the year 2024. Chinese law enforcement officers of the Ministry of Public Security travelled to Laos. Together with Lao police forces they arrested 462 online fraud suspects in December and 154 people on January 21. Later followed more raids and another 114 suspects were caught. And on February 28 Chinese media reported: "268 criminal suspects who committed cross-border telecommunications network fraud were handed over to us." The handover took place in January at Bokeo international airport. The Lao Ministry of Public Security confirmed to Radio Free Asia that the suspects were arrested in the Golden Triangle Special Economic Zone.



The Golden Triangle Special Economic Zone was not the only target of Chinas Ministry of Public Security. Similar operations were conducted in Myanmar, Cambodia, The Philippines and the United Arab Emirates. China is pushing hard against the scammers. In 2023, Chinese courts dealt with 31,000 telecom fraud cases (up 48%), sentenced 64,000 (up 39%). Incidence of cases of assisting online criminal activities also increased significantly, as the Vice President of Supreme People’s Court said.

And what is Casino tycoon Zhao Wei doing now? On February 26 he smiled broadly at his Kapok Star Hotel, where the Lao Central Committee held a conference on "Combating and Preventing Illegal Online Activities". Lao government held the meeting "to publicize the dangers of cybercrime and Lao national laws and regulations to all domestic and foreign investors, operators and workers, so as to ensure the peace, security and safety of the Lao country and people. orderly to ensure the healthy development of the Golden Triangle Special Economic Zone", as mp.weixin.qq.com/ reported. Wang Erbao, President of Golden Kapok Group, promised that the Golden Triangle Special Economic Zone would cooperate with the Lao government to crack down on illegal and criminal activities and cooperate with the government to promote and improve laws and regulations against telecommunications network fraud.



In 2023 Great Britain had sanctioned Zhao Wei, his wife Su Guiqin and his casino-director Eberahim Abbas due to links to *trafficking of individuals to the [GTSEZ], where they were forced to work as scammers … subject to physical abuse and further cruel, inhuman and degrading treatment or punishment."


Read also:
Thousands of (illegal) Myanmar workers constructed the buildings in Golden Triangle Special Economic Zone


Get an impression of the Golden Triangle Special Economic Zone by this video:


Monday, February 5, 2024

Bokeo International Airport: For two millions of Passengers - but only one Flight daily until now

Bokeo International Airport (BKIA) in Laos was expected to open end of 2023. But that did not happen. There was just a Youtube video announcing the opening soon:



The new airport is located at the Golden Triangle Special Economic Zone (SEZ) and covers 300 ha. It would be the second airport in Bokeo province in addition to the existing small airport located in the provincial capital Huayxai. The new airport has been constructed by the owners of the Golden Triangle Special Economic Zone, Chinese-owned Kings Romans Casino (Dok Ngiew Kham Group with chairman Zhao Wei). The construction cost of US$175 million is being financed by the Hong Kong-based Greater Bay Area Investment and Development (HK) Limited, which is a member of the Dok Ngiew Kham Group, as Vientiane Times reported. The aiport is designed to accommodate large aircrafts including the Boeing 747 and Airbus 320.

Construction of Bokeo International airport shown on Facebook Page of Golden Triangle Special Economic Zone on May 4 in 2023.

Doubts came up in Bokeo province and elsewhere about this airport project. The Lao government can expect to lose customs revenue, taxes and entry fees to Chinese investors who have the 99-year lease on the land in Bokeo where the airport is being built, as rfa.org reported.

The Golden Triangle SEZ has also become a haven for criminal activities including money laundering, prostitution, online scam and drug trafficking, as the International Crisis Group pointed out in a report. It named the Special Economic Zone "South East Asia’s Most Conspicuous Criminal Enclave". In December the Lao authorities deported 462 Chinese nationals for offenses including human trafficking from the Golden Triangle SEZ.

The International Crisis group reported, that online scam operations are running in the Golden Triangle Special Economic Zone. But lately China has asked the countries in South Asia to fight the criminal networks behind these scam operations. This could be one more reason, why the opening of Bokeo International Airport was in delay. Such a big airport, that can handle 2 millions of passengers a year only makes sense, if Chinese authorities agree to flights from Chinese airports to Bokeo to transport customers to the casino and the hotels.

Then Bokeo International airport hold an opening ceremony on 5 February 2024. The ceremony was attended by Lao Prime Minister Sonexay Siphandone. But this ceremony was overshadowed by the announcement of Lao Airliness of the indefinite termination of Bokeo-Vientiane flights, as Laotian Times reported. So this airport for now only handles one passenger flight a day operated by Lanexang Airways International between Vientiane and Ton Pheung (ເມືອງຕົ້ນເຜິ້ງ). And this airline seems to be owned by the same Chinese company, who built the airport and developped the Golden Triangle Special Economic Zone. This company got a 50-years concession for the airport, as Lao News Agency writes.


Read also:
Will the Chinese Scam Networks relocate their Operations from Myanmar to Laos?