Saturday, June 2, 2018

Si Phan Don ສີ່​ພັນ​ດອນ - 4000 islands in the Mekong

See the locations on Si Phan Don Google Map
See the Pakse Weather Forecast


Picture magical-world
Boats in the evening sun


"Si Phan Don" in Lao means "4000 islands". Around 110 to 60 kilometres down from Pakse the Mekong River forms different streams and these form hunders of islands. More than 60 000 people are living here, mainly from fishing. And here you find also the Irrawaddy Dolphins. See a picture by peterjones79. The best time to see the Irrawaddy dolphins is in the morning or in the late afternoon. But: Be aware: The Mekong Dolphin is endangered. Read: Is there a future for the Mekong Dolphin?


The best time to visit Si Phan Don is between November and January when the weather is cool and dry.


Picture Pretre
Mekong River at Si Phan Don

Picture takwing.kwong



How to arrive

By bus:

Pakse-Don Khong: From Southern Bus Terminal in Pakse buses or Songthaews leave several times between 10 am and 3 pm. After 120 km (three hours) you arrive by ferry in Muang Khong.

Pakse-Don Khon/Don Det: From Southern Bus Terminal in Pakse buses or Songthaews for Ban Nakasang leave several times between 7.30 am and 3 pm (three to four hours), then you take the longtailboat to Don Khon or Don Det.

Ubon Ratchathani-Pakse-Khon Phapeng Waterfalls: Air-conditioned buses operate on Friday, Saturday, Sunday and public holidays. The bus leaves Ubon Ratchathani at 0730 and arrives at the waterfall in southern Laos around noon. From Khon Phapeng it departs at 1400 and arrives in Ubon Ratchathani around 1830. The bus stops in Pakse for people who want to overnight there. For more information call Ubon Ratchathani’s bus station (045 314 299) or the Transport Company at 1490.

By car: There is a car ferry from Ban Hat to Ban Na on Don Khong island.



Don Khong ດອນ ໂຂງ - the big island

See the locations on Don Khong Google Map

Picture mypfuffin
Rice field

Don Khong is the main island, the big one, as lokal people say, when they want to prevent you from mistaking it with Don Khon, which lies near the Mekong waterfalls. Don Khong is 18 km long and 8 km wide. The island can easily discovered by bicycles, which can be rented from a woman on the street near the pier of Muang Khong or also in the guesthouses. On the bike you will discover a quiet rural life. But don't forget a hat, to protect your head from the strong sun. Read, what Stevie_Wes saw on a bike tour.


Muang Khong
Muang Khong is the main village - a former French settlement. A large gold Buddha in the subduing Mara pose is overlooking the Mekong at Vat Phuang Kaew, also known as Vat Kan Khong:

Picture marhas

Picture marhas1

Picture marhas1


Vat Chom Thong at the upstream end of the village dates from the Chao Anou period (1805-1828). You find a Khmer-influenced sim with an unusual cruciform floor plan and carved wooden window shutters:

Picture marhas

Picture marhas

Picture marhas
Khmer influenced door

The naga heads on the roof of the main sim spill water from their mouths during raintime. Coconut and betel palms and Mango trees give the temple grounds some shade.


View across the Mekong towards Hat Xai Khun and its temple:

Picture marhas
A more detailed picture of the temple by Jo



Muang Saen

Muang Saen is a little village with view to the Cambodian boarder across the Mekong.
By bicycle it's about 45 minutes from Muang Khong. About 6 km north of Ban Muang Saen Nua you arrive at Wat Phou Khao Kaew (Glass Hill Monastery):

Picture patrikmioeff
Wat Phouang Keo

An entrance leads to the underground location of the nagas (Muang Nak). The legend says, the nagas will come to the surface to protect the Lao poeple when the country is in danger.


Ban Hua Khong

Ban Hua Khong at the north-western end of Don Khong was in 1924 the birthplace 0r Khamtay Siphandone, who became a postman and later the president of Laos. He has renovated Wat Hua Khong Pha Nyai with a cement seated Buddha image in the main sim.


At the southern tip of the island you discover two small villages: Ball Huay and Ban Hang Khong. Here Wat Thepsulin Phudin Hang Khong, also known as Wat Hang Khong, has spacious grounds and a small sim. Nearby is a carved and painted wooden Buddha sanctuary and the dharma sermon hall. Then there is Wat Sllimangkhalaham in Ban Huay.



Where to stay on Don Khong:

In Muang Khong:

Auberge Sala Done Khong: Closed in December 2010 - for renovation? No information on their website. From 26 USD. Air-con rooms with hot shower in wooden french colonial houses. Veranda areas to relax. "Popular with tour groups", notes travelfish.org. Very good reviews on tripadvisor.com. See picture by June.




Bounma Guesthouse: Basic rooms in an old wooden house.

Picture marhas



Don Khong Guesthouse
: 20 USD. Choice of rooms with fan or aircon (upstairs). Upstairs you find a balcony with reclining chairs and you overlook the Mekong River. The guesthouse rents bikes and you can book transportation to Pakse and Si Phan Don. Good review by Captain_Bob on thorntree

Picture marhas

Picture Don Khong Guesthouse


Mali Guesthouse: 30 USD. Ban Kangkhong.


Mekong Inn: Ban Kangkong. 250m south of the boat landing. Fan rooms with shared bath are on the wooden second floor, air-con rooms with attached bath on the concrete first floor. Good review on travelfish.org. Read also the review by Free Pants.

Picture marhas



Villa Muong Khong Hotel: From 43 USD. 22 rooms in bungalows with air-con and bathrooms with hot showers. Bicycles can be rented here. Good reviews on holidaycheck and virtualtourist. A "comfortable midrange option" according to travelfish.org


Picture Muong Khong Villa


Pon Arena Hotel and Pon's River Guest House: From 20 USD. "It feels more like a small hotel than a guesthouse", comments travelfish.org. In fact a hotel has been added not far from the guesthouse.

Picture marhas
Pon's Guest House with the small road along the Mekong

Picture marhas
Pon's Arena Hotel

Picture marhas

Picture Pon's Arena Hotel




Souk Sabay Don Khong: Next door to Pon's guesthouse. Good review by Tannith. "The rooms here are nothing special", comments travelfish.org. No good view according to visitasiatravel.com

Picture marhas



Senesothxuen Hotel: From 50 USD. See picture by Diane and picture on tripadvisor.de. Critical review on holidaycheck

Picture Senesothxuen Hotel



Souksan Guesthouse: From 35 USD. One kilometer from the boat landing. With air-con and hot-water bath. The former dorm-style accommodation was replaced with a new building. There are also bungalows and a restaurant with Chinese, Lao and Thai food at the river. Critical review on travelfish.org


Villa Kang Khong: From 15 USD. Aircon from 15 USD. Resembles a traditional Lao wooden house, 12 rooms. They rent bikes. Good review on tripadvisor.com. "Try for an upstairs room though as the downstairs ones are a bit dark and cellar-like", is the advise of travelfish.org.

Picture marhas1
See also pcitures by Karin 1, 2 and 3. And also pictures by Ben and mypuffin



In Muang Saen:

Say Khong Guest House: Opposite the boat landing. Cold shower.

Muong Sene Guest House: *Go there for the huge wooden rooms with charm and the relative tranquility (rooster around)", notes passplanet.com.



On Mekong River from Don Khong to Don Det

Picture marhas
Leavinmg from Don Khong

Picture marhas

Picture marhas
One of 4000 islands

Picture marhas

Picture marhas
Car ferry to Don Khong

Picture marhas


Picture marhas



Picture marhas

Picture marhas
Another of the 4000 islands...

Picture Naomi
...and more of them

Picture marhas
French Bridge between Don Khon and Don Det, with mountains in Cambodia

Picture marhas
Arriving at Ban Nakasong



Don Det

See the locations on Don Det Google Map

Map of Don Det

Picture Tozbee

Picture patrikmioeff

Picture katiew

Picture marhas
The French Pier on Don Det - the end of a railway, that started on Don Khon, to move goods from the lower side of the Mekong Falls to the upper side, because ships could not get trough.

Don Det can be quite full of backpackers you may have met before on Khao San Road in Bangkok. It's no longer the quiet spot you may be looking for. "The northern tip of Don Dhet - where the boats set down - has become very heavily developed towards backpacking tourism. Cafes, restaurants, pseudo-bars, tour and travel agents and (slooooooow) internet cafes", notes Stevie_Wes. But he adds, that it's relative here: "It is quiet. Super-relaxed. And not over-hustled or bustled by either touts or tourists. Yes ‘happy’ food stuffs and drinks and ‘buckets’ are available but not shoved down your throat." See a bike ride throigh Don Det on a video by iamgreg007

A guide for Don Det you find on travelfish.org


Where to stay on Don Det:

Billee's Guest House: See picture by fritz_da_kat


Cafe Don Det: Read about on passplanet.com


Cindy's Guesthouse: See picture by anlis


Hangdet Bungalow: Read about on passplanet.com


Little Eden: Good reviews on tripadvisor.com. Read how the Belgian Mathieu started the guesthouse and see pictures of Little Eden on Jenni & Michael's Blog


Mr. Mo Guest House:


Mr. Phao's Sunrise Bungalows: Read the review by Martin-Stefan in German.


Mr. Thos Bungalow: Read about on passplanet.com


King Kong Bungalows:

Picture marhas
King Kong Restaurant


Nouphit Guest House: See picture by fritz_da_kat


Paradise Guesthouse:


River Garden Guesthouse:

Picture marhas


Santiphab Guesthouse:


Souksan Guesthouse:

Picture marhas


Thawan Daeng Guesthouse:



Don Khon

See the locations on Don Khon Google Map


Picture goflashbacker
Mekong sunset, seen from Salaphae.

Picture Veigo
Sunset in Don Khon

Picture Naomi
French colonial railway bridge between Don Khon and Don Det

Picture marhas>
What's left of the French railway

Picture marhas
French school on Don Khon

Picture marhas
Chan Thouma Restaurant

Picture marhas
Wat Khon Tai

Picture mypuffin
Wat Khon Tai



Where to stay on Don Khon:

Bane Khone Guesthouse: Read about on passplanet.com


Mr. Bouaphanh Guesthouse: Two bungalows with shared bath on the river bank and more bungalows with private bathroom off the river. "One of the best budget locations", commemnts travelfish.org . Read about on passplanet.com. See a picture by Travels in Southern Lao


Kampheng Guesthouse: Wood and bamboo bungalow, no electricity, cold shower. See picture by Vix. Read review by TheSnowQueen


Mr. Bounh's Guesthouse: Read about on passplanet.com


Pakha Guesthouse: Read about on passplanet.com


Pan's Guesthouse: From 18 USD. Bungalows with river or garden view, at the riverfront, facing Don Det. Here you can book tours in and around Si Phan Don and rent bicycles or motorbikes and hire minivans and boats with drivers. Internet is available. See picture by Cecilia74 and planettreasures

Picture marhas



Sala Done Khone: From 22 USD. Spacious, nicely decorated rooms in an old teak house in French colonial style and three floating studios. All of the rooms have air-con plus private bath with hot showers. "The main building has been refurbished without interfering with its historic character", adds travelfish.org. Read more on passplanet.com. Good reviews on tripadvisor.com - except for one complaning about a house party all night long om opposite Don Det. Can arrange boat trips for Khonephapheng waterfall. Picture by June

Picture saladonekone.com


Salaphae: From 25 USD. "Outstanding" according to travelfish.org. Raft houses with solar heating and more rooms in French Residence and Ban Lao Residence. Salaphae has also a camping with bungalows on Khone Pa Soi - with waterfall view. See pictures by umdiewelt.de

Picture goflashpacker

Picture Pretre

Picture goflashpacker
Outlook from the raft house

Picture goflashpacker
Ban Lao Residence


Seng Ahloune Guesthouse: Fro, 34 USD. Wooden bungalows are raised on stilts, set around the garden and on the river front.

Picture Seng Ahloune
See also picture by Uwe.


Somphamit Guesthouse: 10 USD. Six guestrooms in three wooden buildings on stilts with communal balconies. Simple fan rooms with mosquito net. Next door to Sala Dhone Khone. Go for one of the new bungalows, is the advise of travelfish.org. Read also review on passplanet.com

Picture Somphanit Guesthouse



Xaymontri Residence: From 09 USD. Good option off the river according to travelfish.org

Picture marhas




Khon Phapheng Falls

Picture Veigo

Picture Pretre

Picture patrikmloeff

How to arrive here: Take a boat to Ban Nakasong. (20 minutes from Don Khon, 5 minutes from Don Det). Take a Tuktuk to the falls, ask for at least two hours staying at the falls.



Somphamit Falls, also called Li Phi Falls

Picture marhas

Picture Tozbee

Picture Pretre

Li Phi means "spirit trap" in local words. Many Lao people believe the falls catch ghosts and spirits. But there is also another explanation for the name: During the Indochina-war dead bodies were dumped in the Mekong and carried into the fish traps near the falls. This story was reported by The Nation


Si Phan Don by boat-tour:

Vat Phou Mekong Cruises:


Picture melomelo
What's more funny?


Read more:
Trekking around Kiet Ngong and Phapho wetlands - in Xe Pian National Protected Area
Champasak, Vat Phou and Lingaparvata
Is there a Future for the Mekong Dolphins?
Don Sahon Dam project threatens Mekong Dolphins

Friday, June 1, 2018

Where to eat, when you are in Vientiane

See the locations on Vientiane Restaurants Google Map


Picture by Backpack Foodie
At the night market


Night Market Ban Anou: Near crossing of Chao Anou and Khoun Bourom Road.


Night Market along the Mekong: Many stalls in the west of the street along the Mekong


Food stalls: Along Lane Xang Road, north of Talat Sao and between Hathsadi and Khou Vieng Road.


Picture by Many Moon Honeymoon
Everything ready for a delicious streetfood-meal


Cafés:

Joma Bakery: 14/4 Setthathirat Road. Very nice sandwichs and great coffee, say reviews on tripadvisor.com. "Delicious pastries, sandwiches, quiche, muesli, fruit, shakes", adds Lonely Planet. Daily papers from Laos and Thailand and Wi Fi, mentions chiengfa.com

Picture by larique


Scandinavian Bakery: 74/1 Pangkham Road. "The cinnamon rolls and chocolate croissants are to die for", comments Muggles1 on tripadvisor.com. See picture on travelblog.org and on travelpod.com


Maison du Café: 70 Pangkham Road. Coffee from Laos, Brazil, Kenya and Colombia. And also tea! And also a travel agent, discovered the tranquilo traveler


Chinese:

Heng Boun and Chao Anou Road are the heart of Vientianes chinatown.


Ban Haysok: 34-36 Heng Boun road.


Guang Dong: 91-93 Chao Anou Road. Cantonese dishes. "Good food", says one review on tripadvisor.com


Peking Duck: Good review with pictures by thenhbushman.com


French:

Le Silapa: 17/1 Th Sihom. Excellent, according to reviews on tripadvisor.com


La Cave des Châteaux: Big wine choice, romantic terrace. The wine is wunderful and the kitchen excellent according to reviews on tripadvisor.com. See picture by talesfrom30b


Le Provencal: Nam Phou. "Pizza margheritas freshly baked in a wood fired oven. Yummy.", comments edfaigman on tripadvisor.com. Don't await too much, it's a French bistro, not more.


La Terrasse: 55/4 Nokeokoummane Road. "French-European food, great desserts, good family restaurant, very popular with expats, excellent bread", notes the blog Apocalypse Lao. See picture on travelpod.com


Italian:

Aria Italian Culinary Arts: Excellent, according to reviews on tripadvisor.com


L'Opera: Homemade pasta.


International:

Douang Deune: Francois Ngin Road. "Excellent Lao, Vietnamese, and Thai food" with Western classical music, notes frommers.com


Khop Chai Deu: 54 Setthathirad Road. In an old French colonial villa, Lao and European dishes. Has a link to the Book Lao Cooking and The Essence of Life. "Khop Chai Deu is the crossroads for expats, backpackers, and tourists", describes frommers.com and notes tasty barbecue and good Lao sections - also "an extensive range of fried insect dishes including crickets and larvae". See their Facebook page. See a video about their lunch buffet


That Dam Wine House:

The Spirit House: Good cocktails with Mekong View, say reviews on tripadvisor.com


Japanese:

Yulala Café: Heng Boun Road. "Cute japanese restaurant and best chocolate desserts", say reviews on tripadvisor.com


Fujiwara: 2/2 Luang Ptabang Road. An epic Sushi menu, notes lonelyplanet.com


Lao:

Just for fun: 51/2 Pamkham Road. Vegetarian dishes. "A good option for committed veggies", comments frommers.com and also a Lao handicraft store.


Kong View Restaurant: On the riverside, west of Vientiane - take a Taxi.


Nang Kham Bang: Khoun Boulum Road. Very godd review by mmm-yoso!!!


Nok Noy: Fa Ngum Road (corner of Nokeokoummane Road). Noodle shop. See pictures on igougou.com


Kualao: 141 Samsenthai Road. In an old colonial villa.


Lotus Restaurant: Nokeokoummane Road. In a house in colonial style.

Makphet: Setthathirat road. This restaurant trains homeless youth and is run by Friends International. It sells also a cookbook "From Honeybees to Pepperwood". "A foodies heaven", say reviews on tripadvisor.com. Read more on laocook.com

Picture by Backpack Foodie
A vegetable dish by Makphet

Picture by Backpack Foodie
Laap - a meat based salad with mint


Mekong Sunbar Restaurant: 1/13 Fa Ngum Road.


Nok Noy Noodle:


Pho Zaab: Lao noodle soup - beef and pork noodles with herbs, lime juice and chili


Vilaylac:


Thai:

Full Moon Café: "Boasting Lao, Thai, Chinese, Vietnamese, and Indian daily specials, this is the place to go if you're not sure which Asian country's cuisine you want to sample", recommends Frommers
. See a picture by Roopa Anish


Linda Sathaphorn: 306/18 Saphanthong Road. Very popular by Thais. with a shaded courtyard, notes lonelyplanet.com


Phikun: Good and quick according to one review on tripadvisor.com


Vietnamese:

Lucky's: Samsenthai Road.

Nam Neong: Next to hotel Lao. Here you wrap meat and vegetables or fish into Vietnamese rice paper. Read review by laoworld.net

PVO Café: 344 Samsenthai Road. "Tasty do-it-yourself spring rolls" comments nileguide.com

Picture by mikecogh


Read also the restaurant guide by the Blog "Apocalypse Lao" and the reviews by New York Times readers

Wednesday, May 2, 2018

Not to miss, when your are in Vientiane

See the locations on Vientiane Google Map


Picture by mypuffin
Gate to That Luang


Nam Phou: A square with e fountain and lots of restaurants around in the middle of Vientiane.


Anousavari Monument: Also: Patuxai, meaning: Victory Gate. Climb up and have a good view accross Vientiane. The monument, built between 1957 and 1968, is dedicated to those who fought in the struggle for independence from France. It looks like Arc de Triomphe in Paris, but its design is Laotian. You discover many Buddhist mythological figures like kinnari (half-female, half-bird).

Picture by Hugo Martins


That Luang: A stupa, the most important religious monument of Laos, with 30 small stupas around and Vat That Luang Neue in the north and Vat That Luang Tai in the south. That Luang has been built by King Settathirat in 1566. During That Luang Festival (2011 from 10-12 November) hundreds of monks representing all Lao temples gather to accept alms from the people and fireworks are displayed at night.

Picture by David Whitmore

Picture by mypuffin

Picture by Bruno [BRA]

Picture by Philip Roeland
Vat That Luang Neua

Philip Roeland
Vat That Luang Neua


Vat Sisaket: The oldest temple in Vientiane, built by King Anou in 1818. You find here more than 2,000 small Buddha statues in the niches, made of wood, stone, silver and bronze. The ordination hall in the centre is decorated with mural paintings of the past lives of Buddha.

Picture by Peter Broer

Picture by Many Moon Honeymoon

Picture by daibera


Vat Si Muang: Also: Si Mueang. The sim (ordination hall) is divided into two rooms. In the front room you find usually a monk giving blessings. The back room houses the main altar. On the top of the alter you see a gilded stone - the city pillar (lak muang). The temple was built on the ruins of a Khmer Hindu shrine, remains can be seen behind the sim. In front of the temple you see a statue of King Sisavang Vong (he ruled from 1904 to 1959). He holds a palm leaf manuscript, the first legal code of Laos. Read more about Vat Si Muang. See a video by nfsutton.

Picture by Philip Roeland

Picture by Peter Broer


Vat Ong Teu: The large bronze Phra Ong Teu Buddha image gives the temple its name. It has been constructed by King Settathirat in the 16th century. The complex consists of a sim (ordination hall), a ho rackhang (bell tower), a ho kong (drum tower), a that (stupa), and a kuti (monks’ living quarters). When Siam sacked Laos in 1827-28 Wat Ong Teu was destroyed. After 1843 the French reconstructed the monastery and added a school. Until today the vat is a school for Theravada Buddhism. Read more about the architecture of Wat Ong Teu. See a video and listen to the drums

Picture by dalbera



Vat Inpeng:

Picture by GothPhil

Picture by whl.travel


Ho Phra Keo - the temple of the Emerald Buddha: Setthathirat Road. Open: From 8 till 12 am and 1 till 4 pm. A temple has been built here in the 16th century. The Emerald Buddha, a dark green statue, about 66 centimetres tall, carved from a single jade stone, was kept here during 215 years. King Setthathirat brought it to Vientiane, when he moved the capital from Lanna (today Chiang Mai) zu Vientiane. 1788 it was taken to Thailand by King Taksin. Today the Emerald Buddha is kept in Wat Phra Keo in Bangkok (read more). The temple building was destroyed in 1828 and rebuilt between 1936 and 1942. But the doors are from the original building. The verandah houses Buddha statues from all over South-East Asia. Ho Phra Keo now houses a museum which contains a copy of Pha Bang, the gilded throne, Khmer Buddhist stelae, bronze frog drums, wooden carvings and palm-leaf manuscripts. See the gallery by laostravelguide

Picture by mypuffin
Bronze Buddha in the subduing Mara position. See another picture by Adam Carr

Picture by dalbera


Vat Mixai:

Picture by Backpack Foodie

Picture by GothPhil


Vat Hai Sok: It has an impressive five-tiered roof, topped with elegant golden spires. The windows and facade are beautifully carved in wood. Gilded multi-headed nagas flank the steps. See pictures on orientalarchitecture.com, on The Guide Hog and by farida. See also the video by inranfle.

Picture by iambents

Picture by iambents
Drum tower


Lao National Museum: On the first floor the museum presents one of the original Jars from the Plain of Jars and various stone and bronze age implements. The second floor explains the 18th Century Laotian Kingdom.


Talat Sao Mall and Market: In the corner of Thanon Lane Xang and Thanon Khu Vieng. The morning market has two floors two floors: textiles, electronics and watches on the first, clothing, gold, and jewelery on the second floor. Talat Sao Mall has three floors, escalators, some cafés and a food court.


Talat Khua Din Market:

Picture by Hanoi Mark
See more pictures by mmm-yoso!!!


Sunset over the Mekong River:

Picture by fredalix


Chou Anou Road:

Picture GothPhil


Xieng Khouan (Buddha Park): 24 km south of the town centre, off Thanon Tha Deua. Open from 8 am to 4.30 pm.

Picture by thich8

Buddha Park, a collection of Buddhist and Hindu sculptures, has been built in 1958 by
Luang Pu Bunleua Sulilat, who - as priest - merged Hindu and Buddhist philosophy and had many followers. He moved to Thailand at the time of the 1975 Lao revolution. In 1978 he realized the same kind of park at Wat Khaek in Nong Khai. A concrete monument in the grounds of Buddha Park has three levels with interior spiral stairs. The three levels represent hell, earth and heaven. Buses with the direction Xieng Khuang depart every half and hour from Talat Sao terminal.

Picture by LightOnDude

Picture by chericbaker


Herbal sauna at Vat Sok Pa Luang: Also: Luong. This forest temple is in Muang Sisauanak and well known for its herbal sauna and massage. For the sauna you get a sarong-like loin cloth. When you come out you are supposed to drink herbal tea and not to wash off the perspiration for at least several hours - some say six- to allow the herbal steam to soak into you pores. Read more about this sauna experience of Daniel Haber. The sauna is open from 1 to 8 pm. Read also the experience of bohemiantraveler.com. The nearby Wat 51 Amphon (Thanon Si Amphon) also does herbal saunas. Wat Sok Pa Luang is also known for its course of instruction in vipassana (Buddhist meditation). The abbot and teacher is Ajahn Sali Kantasilo, a Thai who came to Laos.

Picture by Scorchamac From the street you only see this door to Vat Sok Pa Luang

Picture Ben Beiske
The steam for the sauna is produced by a wood-fire.